I have long enjoyed Robert Ketley’s column in California Fly Fisher magazine because he often delves deeply into aspects of fly fishing that we don’t pay much attention to. And he’s a tireless researcher. So when I noticed a deep dive he did on fly-fishing knots using a microscope, I knew I had to get him on the podcast. You won’t learn about which knot is best, but you will learn about why knots hold and why they break, how to tie a knot properly, and what happens when a knot gives way.
In the Fly Box, we have some unusually good questions, including:
- Will the 10-foot 7-weight Helios D rod offer me enough tippet protection when using 5X for steelhead?
- My local wild trout stream has almost dried up this year. Where do the fish go, and how long until this stream can recover?
- When wading deep, when I pick up the line and cast I notice I make waves in the water. How can I eliminate this?
- When swinging wet flies in a tight stream, I need to use a roll cast, but how do I make another roll cast after my flies complete their swing?
- I see fish on the bottom of a spring creek, but I can’t catch them using my tight line technique. What do you think I am doing wrong?
- I was scolded by an outfitter when I changed direction when fighting a big fish. He said it will wear a hole in their mouth and they will get off. Was I doing it wrong?
- Can I go from a 4X leader with a tippet ring to a 7X tippet? Will not having tapered sections in there be bad?
- I don’t have much finger dexterity and have trouble saving my tippet scraps. Do you have any suggestions?
- A listener reminds us that in lakes in Maine that are listed as fly-fishing only, it is illegal to troll a fly.
- When trolling a fly from my canoe, how can I get my fly deeper?
- What would be the best Helios rod for fishing the Henry’s Fork?
Kudos to Mr. Ketley for going where no angler has gone before. Groundbreaking work to say the least. As a bit of a knot geek, this was the most fascinating podcast yet. A few random comments regarding his creative observations of knot failure.
His point of failure (flattening inside the hook eye) discovery certainly advocates for high quality hooks and also running the tag through the eye twice.
One of the unavoidable problems in knot testing is the use of force measuring machines that all exert a steady pull. Anglers rarely experience knot failure during the steady pull of a fish. It most frequently occurs during an impact force from a hook set or the surge of a fish. I always give my knots an informal tug (impact) test before casting. Occasionally one fails and reveals a poorly tied/seated knot.
The absolute best way to avoid breakoffs, especially for trout anglers, is to give up on that 6X and 7X tippet material which is completely unnecessary. I rarely fish even 5X in a pretty technical/pressured system.
Euro nymph anglers who insist on those ridiculously fine tippet diameters to get there Perdigons down to that 27th dink, may regret losing the fish of lifetime. My goal at the start of a fishing season is always zero breakoffs.
Never quite accomplish it but I do come pretty close by sticking with heavier tippet material.
If you’re still tying clinch knots and blood knots, I’d recommend the following alternatives which are both easier, faster, and stronger than those more traditional knots:
Tippet to fly: Double Davy knot
Tippet/leader splicing: Infinity Tippet knot
I’m trying to tie a “fearless fly” What material tubuing do you reccomend, and where do I get it?