A few weeks ago, I did a podcast on floating fly lines with Josh Jenkins of Scientific Anglers. Not only was it popular, but I also hinted that we might do one on sinking lines, which produced a minor barrage of requests for one. So here it is. You’ll learn about how sinking lines are made; what those designations like IPS, Class V, and T-14 mean; and how to use them in your fishing. You’ll also get some hints on how to pick the right sinking line for your own situations.
In the Fly Box this week, we cover the following suggestions and questions:
- A suggestion on how to get a nice flat shape when tying nymphs
- A heads up about the FFI Fly-Tying Awards
- Why do I lose so many trout using size 22 hooks? Should I bend the hooks out a bit?
- Can I substitute monofilament for fine wire on my Elk Hair Caddis?
- How do I extend the butt section of my leader? Exactly what knots do I need?
- Is it OK to use flies tied for different species in other habitats?
- How do I catch walleye on a fly?
- I am legally blind and want to catch brook trout on small mountain streams? What is the best method for me?
- Can I use UV resin instead of head cement on smaller flies?
- What are the most effective colors of Dragon Tails?
- What sinking line is best for any given body of water?
If you don’t see the “Play” button above, click here to listen.
Very interesting and useful info!
Hi, Tom and Josh, thanks for your podcast on sinking lines.
I’ve wondered, since ORVIS owns Scientific Anglers, why are these two fly line brands in competition with each other?
Now for some technical, maybe too specific, questions:
What is the appropriate Sink Tip line to match to a 8 weight fly rod? My understanding (e.g. Joe Brooks’ Trout Fishing) is that an 8 weight line is specified as 210 +/- 8 grains for the first 30 feet. But I’ve heard it said that typically 300 grains would be appropriate for that 8 weight line. That seems excessively heavy. Is it just that the 300 grains includes more than the first 30 feet of line? One time I was shooting the bank with large-ish streamers with the guide’s 8 wgt with 300 grain sink tip, and it worked just fine. So, please straighten out my confusion on this topic.
Long ago, I also built a shooting head for my 9 wgt rod using 18.5 feet of LC-13 lead core (13 grains/foot, with total weight = 240 grains for the head which is specification of a 9 wgt line) blood-knotted to Amnesia monofilament running line. I’ve been retrieving the line right up to the knot at the back end of the LC-13 line and then starting my back cast. Man, it’s hard to keep that that whole head airborne during casting. According to Josh’s suggestion, I guess that I shouldn’t be trying to false cast at all, except for a single back-cast, then shoot. Or should I consider reducing the length of the head? Or just retrieve a little further, keeping some of the LC in the guides and then shooting that LC on the forward cast? Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thank you,
Peter G, Batavia, IL