Photos and artwork by Alberto Rey
Alberto Rey is a longtime Upstate New York steelhead guide, 2021 Orvis-Endorsed Fly-Fishing Guide of the Year, and a Distinguished Professor for Research and Creative Activity at the State University of New York at Fredonia. He and his wife have embarked on a round-the-world trip, and they have generously agreed to share occasional updates from their travels.
By the time we arrived in Spain, we were exhausted by the 30-hour trip from Japan. It took us a few days of recovering in Barcelona before we returned to a regular sleep pattern and got back in condition to spend long days fishing in the Pyrenees. During this time, Barcelona was quickly becoming one of my favorite cities in the world. There was something comforting and exciting about the Moorish-inspired buildings, Gaudi’s architectural masterpieces, the slow pace of living, the affinity for social gatherings, and the flavorful cuisine. These might also have been some of the reasons why the city had attracted artists and writers for centuries. I also began to consider the possibility of living here in the future. Janeil preferred Florence.
After a few days in the city, we were ready to explore the countryside, the vineyards, and rivers. Flowing in the valleys, between the rocky hillsides of the Spanish Pyrenees, are streams that are home to several different strains of trout. Apart from the introduced German browns and American rainbows, you will find Mediterranean brown trout or “zebra trout.” All three of these species have adapted well to the highly variable temperatures and amounts of rainfall that characterize the region. Consequently, these fish can grow quite large, and twenty-plus inch fish populate the streams and readily take a variety of flies. As with many trout species, they also happen to be found in the most beautiful locations in the Pyrenees.
One could spend a lifetime trying to find which streams are the most productive for fly fishing but, fortunately, the folks at Orvis-endorsed Salvelinus have spent the last twenty-five years investigating and guiding clients on their secret waters. They continue to explore new streams and new sections of their favorite waters, so they can better provide the best unpressured fly-fishing experience for their clients under all conditions. They also have intel every morning from their extensive network of contacts that provides the most current stream conditions on every stream within a two-hour radius from their accommodations.
Salvelinus is located inside a small, historically rich medieval village. Your gourmet meals are provided in a private room within a restaurant that has been operated by the same family for almost 300 years. After being there for a week, Janeil and I created a special connection to the soft spoken and humble owner, Juan Antonio. In time, we also got to know the staff and a few locals who frequented the establishment. We felt as though we had become part of the fabric of the town. When we return, it will be because of our relationships to these individuals as much as for the fishing.
The operation is also unique in its commitment to the health and sustainability of its home waters. The outfitter has started a conservation program to restore streams that need nurturing and protection. Conservation efforts in this part of Spain are unheard of and not supported by the government or other not-for-profit organizations. Iván Tarín, the owner and founder of Salvelinus, has taken it upon himself with the help of his friends, clients, and guides to restore stretches of rivers that would otherwise continue to degrade due to deforestation and other factors.
On most of our week-long fishing trips, we spend part of one or more days investigating the local area to get a better perspective on what is unique about the region. This practice has enriched our trips. When I return to the water, I am more invigorated and feel more connected to the environment around me. Salvelinus has local professional staff that are fluent in English and who provide tours of the many small family vineyards and the nearby medieval villages. One of our favorite memories was sitting underneath an olive tree tasting locally grown and processed olive oil with freshly baked artisanal wheat bread while sampling delicious wines from the hundred-year-old vineyard surrounding us. We ended the day at another vineyard just a few minutes away where we enjoyed a gourmet lunch that included freshly picked vegetables and locally raised organic beef.
On to Morocco next!